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The Aquarium Cleanup Crew: Shrimp, Snails, and Fish That Clean Your Tank

By Motoki Totsugi β€” founder of Tokyo Aqua Garden, keeping aquariums professionally in Tokyo since 2005 Β· Updated July 2026
An otocinclus catfish grazing algae from a rock in a planted aquarium
An otocinclus at work on a rock β€” one of the tireless algae-grazers that make up a cleanup crew. Photographed in one of our tanks.

Every aquarium grows algae. You can slow it with regular water changes, but no matter how careful you are, a film of green or brown eventually creeps across the glass and the plants. In Japan we call the animals that graze it down β€” literally "cleaning creatures," what English-speaking hobbyists call the cleanup crew. Add the right ones and your tank stays clear longer, and you clean less often.

Our maintenance teams in Tokyo keep hundreds of client aquariums running, and a well-chosen cleanup crew is one of the quiet reasons those tanks stay presentable between visits. But there is a catch that trips up most beginners: no single animal eats every kind of algae. A shrimp that devours hair algae will ignore the brown film a snail licks off in seconds. This guide walks through the shrimp, snails, and fish worth keeping, what each one actually eats, and finishes with a matching table so you can pick by the algae you have.

KEY TAKEAWAYS 要点 β€” the short version

Why Algae Grows in the First Place

The short answer is dirty water. When you keep animals, they produce waste, and uneaten food breaks down. Beneficial nitrifying bacteria convert that organic waste through ammonia and nitrite into nitrate, the relatively harmless end product of the nitrogen cycle. Nitrate does not break down further on its own. It accumulates, and it is fertilizer for algae.

The only ways to remove nitrate are your filter, live plants that consume it, and water changes. Skip those long enough and nitrate climbs, and an algae bloom is usually the visible result. A cleanup crew helps on the back end by eating the algae that grows and the food scraps that would otherwise foul the water, but it cannot lower nitrate the way a water change does. Think of it as support, not a substitute.

The Shrimp

Shrimp are the foundation of most cleanup crews. They are small, they graze constantly, and they are peaceful enough for nearly any community tank. Their one weakness is obvious: to a larger fish, a shrimp is food. Give them cover in the form of plants or driftwood, and keep them away from anything big enough to eat them.

Amano Shrimp

Illustration by Satoko Nakajima
The Amano shrimp β€” the workhorse of the crew.
Amano shrimp β€” Caridina multidentata. In Japan, . Eats: hair algae, fuzz algae, leftover food.

The best all-around algae shrimp, and a native of our home country. Because they are larger than most freshwater shrimp, even a small group clears real work. They are especially good on the soft, stringy algae that human hands cannot clean off plants. A rough guide from our tanks: about 10 in a standard 20-gallon (75 L) planted tank makes visible algae retreat within a couple of weeks.

Two honest cautions. They produce a lot of waste for their size, so overstocking them can foul the water instead of cleaning it. And their appetite for soft plant tissue means they occasionally graze tender new shoots or uproot plants that have not rooted yet. For the full care picture, see our complete Amano shrimp care guide.

Cherry Shrimp

Cherry shrimp β€” Neocaridina davidi. Close cousin of Japan's wild . Eats: soft algae, leftover food.

Smaller than Amano shrimp, so their cleaning pace is gentler, but they are not picky and graze soft algae and food scraps all day. They lack the Amano's downsides with plants and waste, which makes them easy to add to planted or nano tanks. The reason most US keepers love them is color: red, yellow, blue, and more, breeding true and adding life to the lower levels of the tank. They breed readily in freshwater, so a small group becomes a colony on its own. Give them hiding places, because their size makes them easy prey.

The Snails

Snails specialize where shrimp are weakest: the hard surfaces. They rasp film algae off glass, driftwood, and equipment with a scraping motion, reaching the flat panels and tight corners other animals miss. Their shell makes them tougher than shrimp, though a determined puffer or loach can still crack one, so watch tank mates.

The important split among snails is how they reproduce, so we have grouped them accordingly.

Snails That Stay in Check

Nerite Snail

Illustration by Satoko Nakajima
A nerite snail β€” cleans glass, won't breed in freshwater.
Nerite snail β€” family Neritidae. The US workhorse; Japan's near-equivalent is the . Eats: diatoms (brown algae), green spot algae, film algae.

The single most popular cleanup snail in the US, and for good reason. Nerites graze glass and hardscape tirelessly and eat a broad range of film algae. Their great advantage is that they will not breed in freshwater. Females may leave small white egg capsules on hard surfaces, but the larvae need brackish or salt water to develop, so your tank will never be overrun. The one habit to plan for is escaping: nerites climb, so keep the tank covered. If one lands upside down on the substrate, it may not right itself, so flip any you find on their backs.

Mystery Snail

Mystery snail β€” Pomacea bridgesii, also called apple snail. Eats: soft algae, film, leftover food, decaying plant matter.

A large, colorful snail popular in the US as both cleaner and display animal, available in gold, blue, ivory, and more. Mystery snails graze algae and mop up leftover food and dead plant material. They lay eggs above the waterline in clumps, so control is simple: remove the egg clutches if you do not want more. One caution specific to the US: Pomacea apple snails are federally restricted and banned in some states because certain species are invasive. The bridgesii mystery snail is the widely traded, generally legal one, but confirm the species and your state rules before buying.

Snails That Can Overrun a Tank

Breeders β€” add with care
The snails below multiply fast in a tank with extra food. That can be a feature or a plague depending on your feeding habits, so read before you add them.

Ramshorn Snail

Ramshorn snail β€” family Planorbidae. Eats: cyanobacteria film, diatoms, green spot algae, soft plant algae.

An active and genuinely capable algae eater that works the glass and even grazes algae off plant leaves. The catch is reproduction: ramshorns lay eggs on the glass and breed quickly, so a couple can become a swarm in weeks. Population tracks food, so a lightly fed tank stays manageable while an overfed one does not. They come in attractive colors, red, pink, blue, and hobbyists who want a controlled colony often enjoy them. Just go in with your eyes open.

Bladder and Pond Snails

Bladder / pond snails β€” families Physidae and Lymnaeidae. Eats: film algae, leftover food, decaying matter.

These are the small snails that arrive uninvited on new plants, and they are Japan's equivalents in the trade. They are effective, hardy grazers that also clean up decaying matter, and outdoors they even help clear green water. But indoors, in a fed tank, they breed relentlessly. Many keepers never buy them on purpose and simply manage the hitchhikers by controlling how much they feed. If your tank is overrun, the fix is almost always less food, not more snails.

The Fish

Some fish earn their place on the cleanup crew, working the substrate, the surface film, or specific stubborn algae that shrimp and snails leave behind. Match the fish to the job.

Otocinclus

Otocinclus catfish β€” Otocinclus spp., often just "oto." In Japan, . Eats: diatoms (brown algae), green spot algae.

A tiny, peaceful suckermouth catfish that clings to glass and driftwood and grazes brown diatom film and green spot algae, without ever damaging plants. The one warning is starvation: otos eat almost nothing but algae, so a spotless tank can leave them without food. If you keep them long term, train them onto sinking wafers or blanched vegetables like zucchini or spinach so they have a backup. Keep them in a small group.

Siamese Algae Eater

Siamese algae eater β€” Crossocheilus oblongus, "SAE." In Japan, . Eats: diatoms, hair algae, and famously black beard algae.

The reason keepers seek this fish out is black beard algae, the tough black tufts that few animals will touch. A true SAE eats it. Two things to know. First, they grow territorial with age, so one or two in a 20-gallon (75 L) tank is plenty. Second, they are accomplished jumpers, so keep the tank covered. They live near the bottom and can pester bottom dwellers like corydoras, so choose tank mates with that in mind.

Corydoras Catfish

Corydoras catfish β€” Corydoras spp. In Japan, . Eats: leftover food on the substrate (not true algae).

An honest note: corydoras are not algae eaters. What they do brilliantly is patrol the bottom for food that upper fish let fall, keeping the substrate clean. With more than a hundred species, most peaceful, affordable, and endlessly collectible, they are one of the most enjoyable additions to a community tank. Since sunken scraps alone rarely feed them, offer a sinking food so they stay healthy.

Bristlenose and Other Plecos

Pleco β€” family Loricariidae; the bristlenose (Ancistrus) is the practical choice. Eats: diatoms and film algae off hard surfaces.

Plecos are suckermouth catfish that rasp brown algae off glass and driftwood. A key US caution: the common pleco reaches 18 inches (45 cm) and outgrows almost every home tank, so for algae control choose the small, hardworking bristlenose pleco instead. Even so, larger plecos have strong teeth and may scrape acrylic, damage soft plants, or rasp at the slime coat of tank mates, so consider size and compatibility before adding one.

Fish That Help a Little

A few fish graze algae as a side habit rather than a specialty. Mollies (especially black mollies) pick at hair algae and, usefully, eat the oily biofilm that forms on the water surface. Platies nibble soft young hair algae. Both are hardy livebearers, easy for beginners, and both breed quickly and produce a lot of waste, so avoid overcrowding. Treat all of these as helpers, not as your main algae strategy.

Which Cleanup Crew for Which Algae

Here is the practical part. Identify the algae you actually have, then pick the animal that eats it. Species that are US-legal and widely available are listed first in each row.

Algae typeWhat it looks likeBest cleanup crew
Brown algae (diatoms)Brown dust on glass and substrate, common in a new tankOtocinclus, nerite snail, Amano shrimp
Green spot / green filmGreen coating that spreads over glass and substrateNerite snail, bristlenose pleco, Siamese algae eater
Black beard algaeDark tufts on driftwood and filter intakesSiamese algae eater (less effective once fully grown)
Hair algae (green thread)Green strands that tangle in plantsAmano shrimp, cherry shrimp (may need several)
Cyanobacteria (blue-green)Blue-green slimy sheets with a musty smellNo animal reliably eats it; increase water changes and improve flow first

Two rows deserve a note. Cyanobacteria is not a true algae and no cleanup animal will fix it, so that one is on you and your water changes. And black beard algae is stubborn enough that even a Siamese algae eater loses interest as it matures, so tackle it while the fish is young.

A Tokyo Aqua Garden technician cleaning a large aquarium at a restaurant
One of our technicians on a maintenance round β€” a restaurant display tank in Tokyo. This is the work behind every guide on this site.
From Our Maintenance Rounds
In our client aquariums, in offices, clinics, and restaurants, the crew we reach for again and again is simple: Amano shrimp for the plants, a few nerite snails for the glass, and an otocinclus or two for the brown film that shows up on new setups. That trio covers most of what grows between service visits. We deliberately avoid the fast-breeding snails in client tanks, because a snail population explosion looks alarming in a lobby aquarium and is a headache to walk back. It is cheaper and calmer than any chemical algae treatment we have used in more than twenty years of maintenance work.

A Cleanup Crew Is Support, Not a Substitute

The whole crew, from shrimp to snails to fish, slows how fast algae grows and how fast the water fouls. What it cannot do is maintain the tank for you. Stubborn buildup and dirty substrate still need a siphon and a scraper, filter media still needs rinsing, and nitrate still needs the regular water changes only you can do. Choose animals matched to your algae and your tank size, give the vulnerable ones cover, and you will clean less often and keep a clearer tank. That is the job the cleanup crew does well, and the honest limit of what it does.

FAQ

Q. Why do I need a cleanup crew at all?
A. Every tank grows algae, and scrubbing it daily stresses your fish and your patience. A cleanup crew grazes it down naturally between water changes. It is support, not a replacement for maintenance, but it genuinely reduces how often you have to intervene.
Q. What is the easiest crew for a beginner?
A. Start with a few Amano shrimp and a couple of nerite snails. Both are hardy and peaceful, the shrimp handle soft algae on plants while the snails clean the glass, and neither will breed out of control in freshwater. Add an otocinclus if you get brown diatom film.
Q. Can a cleanup crew replace water changes?
A. No. It slows algae and eats leftover food, but only water changes and filtration remove nitrate, the nutrient algae feeds on. Keep up your regular maintenance and let the crew support it.
Q. Which snails should I avoid if I do not want dozens of them?
A. Bladder, pond, and ramshorn snails breed fast in a fed tank and can overrun it. If you want a snail that stays in check, choose nerites, which will not breed in freshwater, or a mystery snail, whose egg clutches are easy to remove.
About Tokyo Aqua Garden
We are a professional aquarium design & maintenance company based in Tokyo, Japan. Our aquarists install and maintain aquariums for offices, clinics and homes across Tokyo, and we have published more than 3,600 aquarium care articles in Japanese. On our maintenance rounds, the right cleanup crew is often the difference between a tank we visit monthly and one that needs weekly attention β€” this guide is that hard-won shortlist. Tokyo Aqua Garden is not affiliated with Tropica Aquarium Plants of Denmark.
Originally published in Japanese on t-aquagarden.com β€” translated and adapted for international readers by the same team. Units, products and species information have been localized for the US.